31 Days in Europe: Food!

Image credit: Got My Reservations

One of the many things I have learned over the past three years of visits to England is that the day of bad food is over (if that was actually ever true or just a tourist stereotype). Travelers can find healthy, fabulous cuisine in every largish town and city, and within close driving distance of every small town. While there’s nothing bad about the occasional pub visit, don’t give in to the stereotype. Search out the great restaurants using tour guide books. Even better, ask the locals.

The famous fish and chips meal can be a gastronomic treat if you know where to find it. Although I ate this beautifully prepared piece of fish at the Tate Modern art museum, local fish and chip take-away places can offer sublime versions of a British favorite. Once again, don’t be afraid to ask the locals.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Say you can’t find a gastro-pub or are not in a position to ask someone who lives there. If you don’t want to blow your whole travel budget on a fancy restaurant, you generally can’t go wrong with Indian food in England. After all, one and half million Indian Britons have to find somewhere to eat their native cuisine.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

And then there’s always the breakfast of champions. British ale makes Miller Light pale in comparison, both figuratively and literally.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

31 Days in Europe: Battle

I’m pretty much a pacifist. I am married to a pacifist. Although I don’t judge those who choose the military as a career or as a way to gain an education, I wish we didn’t have to make that choice at all. I wish that our global community could learn to get along by using our words.

That being said, visits to two very important battlefields in France and England have been meaningful and spiritual. This photo is the closest I can get to my father’s experience when he landed at Omaha Beach in Normandy in 1944. As a part of our river cruise on the Seine last year, we spent a day roaming around the Normandy beaches.

Image via gunandgame.com

The day that we were docked near Normandy, we had a choice of visiting the Normandy battlefields or going to Mont St. Michel or going to see the Bayeux Tapestry. The Bayeux Tapestry depicts the events of the Battle of Hastings, and was most likely created in about 1070. Since my dad landed at Normandy, it was really important for me to see that, but I didn’t really understand that seeing the Tapestry would set me up for understanding this year’s visit to the site of  the Battle of Hastings.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

When I look at these pastoral scenes, it’s hard to visualize the enormity of an army composed of mostly foot soldiers under the command of King Harold II being ambushed by a far superior Norman-French army of archers, cavalry, and infantry working cooperatively together and led by Duke William II of Normandy. The Battle of Hastings occurred on October 14, 1066, during the Norman conquest of England, and marked the last successful foreign invasion of the British Isles. Harold II was killed in the battle—legend has it that he was shot through the eye with an arrow. Harold II became the last English king to die in battle on English soil until Richard III was killed at the Battle of Bosworth Field.  Although there was further English resistance, this battle is seen as the point at which William gained control of England, becoming its first Norman ruler as King William I and is known as William the Conqueror. (Don’t judge me, but I got a lot of this from Wikipedia and I have to give credit.)

These two battlefields remind me of how I feel when I visit the Gettysburg Battlefield — horrified and sickened at the loss of life. Apparently,  so was Pope Alexander II, because he ordered the Normans to do penance for killing so many people during their conquest of England.  William the Conqueror vowed to build an abbey where the Battle of Hastings had taken place, with the high altar of its church on the supposed spot where King Harold fell in that battle. He did start building it but died before its completion; it was finished in about 1094 and consecrated during the reign of his son William Rufus. William the Conqueror had ruled that the Church of St. Martin of Battle was to be exempted from all episcopal jurisdiction, putting it on the level of Canterbury. It was remodelled in the late 13th century but virtually destroyed during the Dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII. That’s the Battle Abbey we visited — another reminder of how powerful and ruthless Henry VIII was — and we were able to walk freely through the ruins.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

These buildings were used as dormitories and workrooms; the actual church only exists where there has been excavation of the crypt, and a plaque marks the site of the high altar that was placed where King Harold was killed. Some of the Abbey buildings are used as a school.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

As with most of the other places we have visited in Europe, really ancient and important relics and buildings are often side by side with evidence of normal people living normal lives. The same applies to Battle; the town square right outside of the gatehouse to the Abbey was decorated with garish figures advertising an upcoming theater presentation. That’s probably why I love history so much — it’s just a bunch of stories about people living their lives — and at Battle, the living coexist with the dead in perfect harmony.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

31 Days in Europe: Thoughts on Vacation Photos

Since it’s Saturday and we’re midway through the 31-Day Challenge, I thought it was time for a little reflection about all those photos that we take on vacation.

There are good ones…

Image credit: Got My Reservations

and there are bad ones.

I'm not claiming any credit for this image.

There are the ones that I should have erased from my digital camera as soon as they were taken …

War memorial at Dover Castle

and there are the funny photos that it’s quite probable only you and a few select friends would even laugh at.

There are the ones that you collect…

We collect photos of stupid and ironic signs

and the ubiquitous photos of flowers that when separated from their context, look just like the other flower photos I took.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

So — what do you do with all of those photographs? In my house, we have a relatively healthy competition over whose photos are the best. We each keep photo files on our computers and historically haven’t been very good about sharing. This year was a breakthrough, though. As soon as we got home from England, we created a Snapfish hard cover scrapbook of our vacation photos. Husband went through all of the photos and pared them down to about 250 out of about 2,000 photos we took. Then we imported them into the Snapfish program and created our book. The fact that we had a 50% off coupon that was expiring provided motivation and created momentum to get the job done, and I’m glad we did this. It’s a lot easier to take a photo book to a party than to take my computer and hook it all up for people to view on a small screen.

Snapfish Photo Book

I think I may be addicted to these photo books. I used to try to scrapbook my vacations and events, and even though I have friends who regularly have scrapbooking parties and encourage me to share their scrapbooking habit, I just bought materials and never used them. I also think that in the long term goal of getting rid of things, these relatively small mementos of vacations are more likely to be cherished and revisited over the years.

What do you do with your photos? Do you still have hard copy prints in the envelopes from twenty years ago? What will your children do with your photos? I hope that the fate of your vacation and family stories won’t lie on the floor of a closet in a deserted home, as my next door neighbors’ are. When both parents passed away, the kids left all the slides and photos in the house they let go to foreclosure. It breaks my heart.

Although not a vacation photo, I thought I’d share a precious personal photo with you. My cousin and her mom (my mother’s sister) recently broke up their scrapbooks and sent me the photos that were of me and my family. I’ve never seen this photo before, but my forehead still bears the scar that resulted from the injury that is pictured in the photo. Thanks to the thoughtfulness of my cousin, I now have a totally cute picture of me with my band-aid.

Image via Got My Reservations

31 Days in Europe: Tuscany Revisited

It’s Friday, Friday, and I can hear Rebecca Black’s stupid song in my head. I’ve had to erase recordings off of my DVR because I haven’t had time to watch the old stuff and the new stuff — Project Runway and Dancing With the Stars and The Sing Off and House — is much more important to me right now. Go Yellow Jackets!

So, tonight I’m taking the easy way out. Click here to read my second most popular post of all time and the one that continues to get more hits than any other. Since we have been in the Italy mode most of this week, let’s revisit Tuscany and one of my favorite authors, Frances Mayes.

Image via overstock.com

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

P.S. If you’re reading, please “like” me on Facebook. I’m trying to migrate over to a professional page rather than my personal page and my daughter and her friends are getting lonely…

31 Days in Europe: Chapel Down Winery

“Grape Britain.” Gold medals for British rosés at the International Wine Challenge. An English white wine costing about $12 served at a Royal Wedding reception. Can any of this be true?

Image via telegraph.co.uk

Image via English Wines Group

Frazer Thompson, our host at Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse, is also the award-winning English Wines Group managing director at Chapel Down Winery in Kent. I was eager to try their wine so we made a visit to the winery. As I soon found out, Chapel Down is the largest premium wine producer in England, and I was not expecting the sophistication and quality that we found at Chapel Down just outside of tiny Tenterden.

Image via English Wines Group

The winery itself is unpretentious but beautiful. Its multi-use property sports a wine tasting room that is more like a gourmet store, a lovely English garden where you can have your wedding, and of course, row upon row of grapevines on the 25 acre property. Although I’m not an expert on winery equipment, its stainless steel tanks looked pretty modern and impressive.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image via beer-pages.com

I tasted several of their current wines and brought some back to the bed and breakfast to share with friends — or not. The award-winning sparkling Vintage Rosé Brut lived up to its hype and was well-priced at £24.99. Husband rummaged through all of the bins to find his favorite, Chapel Down’s own Curious Brew, Admiral Porter. He loved it.

Meanwhile, back at the farmhouse, we talked to one of the couples who were staying in the B&B for an anniversary getaway. They had made reservations at the restaurant at the winery for their celebration and were quite excited about experiencing this little gem. The restaurant is named after its Michelin-starred chef, Richard Phillips. We decided that we would take our friends from Cirencester to the restaurant and hoped for the best.

Apparently having Frazer’s name attached to our reservation worked magic, because were seated at the best table in the room and were served with skill and sensitivity. We ordered the chef’s tasting menu and the wines chosen to go with each course. It was pricey, but worth every pound.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Our meal was extraordinary and presented creatively. All in all, it was a magical evening. One could even say it was a meal fit for a prince and princess.

Image via blogs.babble.com

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days in Europe: It’s a new day

I just got home from visiting my friend and seeing her photos of Italy. When I went to my blog, it’s now 12:02 am and I have missed a day of 31 Days. I don’t regret it a bit. I loved seeing Kathy’s photos of Italy and hope that she will guest post later in the month. Until then, here is something to keep you interested until later “tonight.” Did you know that Winston Churchill was a prolific painter as well as a politician?

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days In Europe: A Revisit to an Italian Oldie but Goodie

Tuesdays are particularly bad for me in keeping up with blogging in general, and the pace of this 31 Day stuff is really putting the screws on me. Yet, I persevere because I love it!

Image via physictourism.com

Today I’m linking up a previous post about traveling in Italy. Sadly, I have not yet been there but am waiting patiently until my school schedule (or lack thereof) allows me to go to Italy in the spring. Until then, I have to enjoy other people’s travels vicariously, including another pair of our traveling friends who are leaving for Tuscany on Friday. Yes, I’m envious.

Enjoy your day and come back tomorrow for some more photos — I’m not sure where we are headed. Any requests? I could really use some comment love today.

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ersJoin the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days in Europe: Knole

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Okay, so the story of Knole is pretty juicy, but it starts way back during the mid-1400s, when it was first built. It is one of the largest houses in England, and its state rooms are largely preserved the way they were in the early 1600s. In this section, the juicy part is in the way Henry VIII forced Thomas Cranmer, his Archbishop of Canterbury, to hand it to him in 1538, just cause Henry liked it, and we now know that you don’t fight with good ole Hal. The Sackville family got control of the house during the reign of Elizabeth I in 1566 by being loyal courtiers, and Sackvilles have lived there ever since.

Image via onelondonone.blogspot.com

Many acres of park are still owned by the Sackville-West family and they live in over half of the house, but the National Trust owns the house and 43 acres of park. Its medieval deer park is comprised of 1ooo acres, and the deer that inhabit it are well-used to constant visitors, as Knole has been shown to the public for 500 years. Watching these very tame deer, it was sad to think that their original purpose on this property was to provide sport for the noblemen to hunt.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Knole is so big and beautiful and full of ancient artifacts that it’s kind of hard to wrap your arms around its magnificence.  We weren’t able to take photos inside because the furnishings and art are so old that they are on the verge of crumbling into dust.

“In the early 17th century, Thomas Sackville, 1st Earl of Dorset, transformed the late medieval archbishop’s palace into a Renaissance mansion. Towards the end of the 17th century, his great-great-grandson, the 6th Earl, acquired Knole’s unique collection of Stuart furniture and textiles through his office as Lord Chamberlain. And then, towards the end of the 18th century the 6th Earl’s great-grandson, the 3rd Duke, added Old Masters bought on the Grand Tour to Italy and portraits commissioned from contemporary English artists such as Reynolds and Gainsborough” (http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-knole/w-knole-history.htm).

The Stuart furniture and bed linens are in the process of being copied and hermetically sealed to protect them from further deterioration. It was really interesting to see the posters showing the original pieces prior to restoration and or duplication.

Now we get to the really juicy part. Thanks for waiting so patiently as the historian in me made her presentation.

Image via Wikipedia Commons

Enter The Honorable Victoria Mary Sackville-West, Lady Nicolson the only daughter of the 3rd Baron Sackville. Vita, as she was called,  grew up at Knole and talked about  how living in Knole was like living in a museum. The family actually occupied a small part of the immense house and left the state rooms and ancient furnishings intact. Our guide told the story that once Vita snuck into one of the Stuart bedrooms and tried to use a hairbrush. Her mother about flipped out over this silly childish curiosity, but you can image mom’s horror to find her daughter playing with these priceless heirlooms!

Image via bookdepository.co.uk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By 1913, Vita had become the wife of Harold George Nicolson, a British writer and politician. Vita already had quite a history of having affairs with female lovers before her marriage, and although she and Harold were devoted to each other, their open marriage allowed them to experiment outside their marital vows. Their letters to each other were edited and published by their son, Nigel Nicolson, after their deaths, and show a couple deeply in love and committed to similar goals and values in life.

Although not officially a member of the Bloomsbury Group, Vita was a friend of the collective of writers, intellectuals, philosophers and artists who lived and worked together in the London neighborhood of Bloomsbury. They were political and social liberals who believed passionately in the importance of art, and also of personal relationships and individual pleasure.

Image via hunter.cuny.edu

Among the many now-famous members of this group was Virginia Woolf, who began a lovers’ relationship with Vita Sackville-West in 1922. Although Vita claims that the affair was only twice consummated, the relationship lasted until the late 1920s and Woolf’s novel, Orlando, is set at Knole and is said to tell the story of Vita’s affair with a previous female lover.  Orlando explores the nature of gender difference and sexual identity because its main character goes back and forth in gender over its 400 years, and Woolf may have used Vita and her husband Harold, both openly bisexual, as the inspiration for Orlando.

Given the memories she had of Knole and her personal social agenda, you can imagine how difficult it was for Vita to be forced to leave it and renounce all claims to Knole simply because she was female. She was heartbroken when her father died and her male cousin inherited Knole and the hereditary title.

Image via telegraph.co.uk

Vita and Harold purchased Sissinghurst in 1930 and began to revive the ruined property, which in the 15th century was owned by the Baker family, who were related by marriage to the Sackvilles. She ended up owning a piece of her own history and making new history with the gardens that she and Harold created together.

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days in Europe: Sissinghurst Castle Gardens

It’s really hard to put into words the profound effect the whole going-to-Sissinghurst experience had on me. From checking Adam Nicolson’s book about Sissinghurst out of the library three times before I could actually finish it, to visiting Knole and seeing why Vita Sackville-West was so angry about primogeniture, the Sissinghurst magic sucked me in. But I’m ahead of myself.

Image via goldenagegardens.blogspot.com

Adam Nicolson is the grandson of legendary Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson. Vita and Harold purchased the run-down Elizabethan era property at Sissinghurst (click here to read the history) in the 1930s after losing her beloved family home, Knole, upon the death of her father. The estate went to a male cousin and then to the National Trust. Vita and Harold rebuilt Sissinghurst and created a beautiful garden, one that continues to serve as model and inspiration for gardeners today. It also became a National Trust property when Vita and Harold’s son Nigel signed it over. One of the tenets of the National Trust ownership, however, is that family members may continue to live on the property in perpetuity if they want to. This brings us back to Adam Nicolson.

Adam and his wife Sarah Raven lived at Sissinghurst, taking care of Adam’s father Nigel Nicolson in his later years. The pair was already famous for both writing books and for television appearances; their transformation of their farm in Sussex became the subject of Perch Farm: A New Life (out of print) and The Smell of Summer Grass: Pursuing Happiness – Perch Hill, 1004-2011. It also marked the beginning of Raven’s television career as a gardening show host and author.

Image via thefirstpost.co.uk

Between 2005 and 2009, in partnership with the National Trust, Adam led a project which transformed the 260 acres surrounding the house and garden at Sissinghurst into a productive mixed farm, growing meat, fruit, cereals and vegetables for the National Trust restaurant. It is this experience that is recounted in Sissinghurst: An Unfinished History.

When we visited Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse (I blogged about this yesterday), one of the first questions I asked Sue was whether the transformation of Sissinghurst to a working farm had been accomplished. She was kind of surprised that I would not know the answer to this, because there had been a BBC television series based on Nicolson’s book and I guess that everyone in England knows the answer to my question. She told me that, yes, there had been many changes made, and that Adam, his wife Sarah, and their children were currently in residence at Sissinghurst. I found that at night I could see their flat screen television from our bedroom window at the Farmhouse and became more and more enchanted with the notion that normal human beings (albeit famous and part of Britain’s peerage) were living in the 16th century buildings at Sissinghurst.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

And then we actually visited the garden. The first night, I made my husband walk around the public spaces in the early evening, even though the garden was closed. I felt as though I could feel the ghosts of Sissinghurst past gathering around me as I sat in the courtyard outside the Granary restaurant in the dusk. It was spooky, yet comforting, to feel the benign presence of the people who had lived in this centuries-old space. Perhaps surprising, too, since one of the major episodes in Sissinghurst’s life had been to serve as a prison. Still, it felt welcoming and safe.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Then we actually went into the garden.Somehow I never made it up to the top of the tower, the only remaining part of the original medieval castle. I kept thinking that I would go another day, but never got the chance again. I regret it now, but at least it’s an excuse to go back.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

As for the garden itself, it was everything I had hoped it would be. I have MANY more photos than these, but I’ll just let some of my pictures tell the remaining story of Sissinghurst Castle and its gardens.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

If you’re looking for more about Vita and Harold, I’m going to take you to Knole tomorrow, Vita’s ancestral home. There’s a lot of juicy stories to share about this castle, so come back to visit!

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days in Europe: Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse

Sometimes things just happen, and then sometimes things happen for a reason. In July 2011, we had planned to spend a week in a self-catering cottage in southeast England. It was a wonderful find, but it fell through. Thankfully, we found Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse, and it was the perfect place for our holiday.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

I’m not usually the type of person who writes Trip Advisor reviews; in fact, we generally read these reviews with a wary eye. Often the reviewer has had a bad experience and wants to complain, or the effusive nature of the review makes one wonder if it was written by a relative or even the hotelier himself. In my case, the review I wrote was 100% accurate and I hope it brings more customers to Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse. This B&B is that good.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

The Victorian farmhouse on the Elizabethan-era property has served as home to the tenant farmer and as a bed and breakfast. It was renovated by the National Trust two years ago and has modern plumbing, electricity, and a lift. It retains its Victorian charm through the combined efforts of the Trust and its charming hosts, Sue and Frazer Thompson.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Entering through the beautiful wooden double doors, guests are likely to encounter the resident black labrador, Inca. She is polite and sedate, and seems to love everyone who visits. The visitor is enchanted with Inca, but the next view of the entry hall is even more fabulous. It’s everything (and more) the web site and the reviewers said it would be.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

The public rooms are tastefully decorated and comfortable. We spent time reading and connecting on the internet while in the parlor, and Sue serves tea in the late afternoon while guests are arriving. It’s a nice place to meet the people from around the world and make new friends. We also enjoyed a full English breakfast every morning in the dining room.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Breakfast is served in antique Spode china and Sue puts fresh flowers everywhere. The gardens around the farmhouse are charming and show Sue’s decorating style. Even the shed by the car park area is pretty.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Each bedroom suite is different and each is carved out of available space in the old farmhouse. Sue and Frazer live on the third floor of the home in their own suite. Sue recommended that we book the largest room, the Sissinghurst Bedroom, for our extended eleven day stay. It was beautiful, with quality linens and toiletries, and a very comfortable bed.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Image credit: Got My Reservations

I have rarely had a vacation where everything seemed to come together in a perfect whole. Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse provided a warm home for us as we toured all over southeastern England and I highly recommend it — if you can get a booking! Plan ahead. Its location between several small cities is convenient for day trips, or you can just stay on the property and immerse yourself in one of the world’s finest gardens. More on Sissinghurst Castle Gardens and its inhabitants on another day. Keep reading!

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

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