31 Days in Europe: Knole

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Okay, so the story of Knole is pretty juicy, but it starts way back during the mid-1400s, when it was first built. It is one of the largest houses in England, and its state rooms are largely preserved the way they were in the early 1600s. In this section, the juicy part is in the way Henry VIII forced Thomas Cranmer, his Archbishop of Canterbury, to hand it to him in 1538, just cause Henry liked it, and we now know that you don’t fight with good ole Hal. The Sackville family got control of the house during the reign of Elizabeth I in 1566 by being loyal courtiers, and Sackvilles have lived there ever since.

Image via onelondonone.blogspot.com

Many acres of park are still owned by the Sackville-West family and they live in over half of the house, but the National Trust owns the house and 43 acres of park. Its medieval deer park is comprised of 1ooo acres, and the deer that inhabit it are well-used to constant visitors, as Knole has been shown to the public for 500 years. Watching these very tame deer, it was sad to think that their original purpose on this property was to provide sport for the noblemen to hunt.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

Knole is so big and beautiful and full of ancient artifacts that it’s kind of hard to wrap your arms around its magnificence.  We weren’t able to take photos inside because the furnishings and art are so old that they are on the verge of crumbling into dust.

“In the early 17th century, Thomas Sackville, 1st Earl of Dorset, transformed the late medieval archbishop’s palace into a Renaissance mansion. Towards the end of the 17th century, his great-great-grandson, the 6th Earl, acquired Knole’s unique collection of Stuart furniture and textiles through his office as Lord Chamberlain. And then, towards the end of the 18th century the 6th Earl’s great-grandson, the 3rd Duke, added Old Masters bought on the Grand Tour to Italy and portraits commissioned from contemporary English artists such as Reynolds and Gainsborough” (http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/main/w-vh/w-visits/w-findaplace/w-knole/w-knole-history.htm).

The Stuart furniture and bed linens are in the process of being copied and hermetically sealed to protect them from further deterioration. It was really interesting to see the posters showing the original pieces prior to restoration and or duplication.

Now we get to the really juicy part. Thanks for waiting so patiently as the historian in me made her presentation.

Image via Wikipedia Commons

Enter The Honorable Victoria Mary Sackville-West, Lady Nicolson the only daughter of the 3rd Baron Sackville. Vita, as she was called,  grew up at Knole and talked about  how living in Knole was like living in a museum. The family actually occupied a small part of the immense house and left the state rooms and ancient furnishings intact. Our guide told the story that once Vita snuck into one of the Stuart bedrooms and tried to use a hairbrush. Her mother about flipped out over this silly childish curiosity, but you can image mom’s horror to find her daughter playing with these priceless heirlooms!

Image via bookdepository.co.uk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

By 1913, Vita had become the wife of Harold George Nicolson, a British writer and politician. Vita already had quite a history of having affairs with female lovers before her marriage, and although she and Harold were devoted to each other, their open marriage allowed them to experiment outside their marital vows. Their letters to each other were edited and published by their son, Nigel Nicolson, after their deaths, and show a couple deeply in love and committed to similar goals and values in life.

Although not officially a member of the Bloomsbury Group, Vita was a friend of the collective of writers, intellectuals, philosophers and artists who lived and worked together in the London neighborhood of Bloomsbury. They were political and social liberals who believed passionately in the importance of art, and also of personal relationships and individual pleasure.

Image via hunter.cuny.edu

Among the many now-famous members of this group was Virginia Woolf, who began a lovers’ relationship with Vita Sackville-West in 1922. Although Vita claims that the affair was only twice consummated, the relationship lasted until the late 1920s and Woolf’s novel, Orlando, is set at Knole and is said to tell the story of Vita’s affair with a previous female lover.  Orlando explores the nature of gender difference and sexual identity because its main character goes back and forth in gender over its 400 years, and Woolf may have used Vita and her husband Harold, both openly bisexual, as the inspiration for Orlando.

Given the memories she had of Knole and her personal social agenda, you can imagine how difficult it was for Vita to be forced to leave it and renounce all claims to Knole simply because she was female. She was heartbroken when her father died and her male cousin inherited Knole and the hereditary title.

Image via telegraph.co.uk

Vita and Harold purchased Sissinghurst in 1930 and began to revive the ruined property, which in the 15th century was owned by the Baker family, who were related by marriage to the Sackvilles. She ended up owning a piece of her own history and making new history with the gardens that she and Harold created together.

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

31 Days in Europe: Sissinghurst Castle Gardens

It’s really hard to put into words the profound effect the whole going-to-Sissinghurst experience had on me. From checking Adam Nicolson’s book about Sissinghurst out of the library three times before I could actually finish it, to visiting Knole and seeing why Vita Sackville-West was so angry about primogeniture, the Sissinghurst magic sucked me in. But I’m ahead of myself.

Image via goldenagegardens.blogspot.com

Adam Nicolson is the grandson of legendary Vita Sackville-West and Harold Nicolson. Vita and Harold purchased the run-down Elizabethan era property at Sissinghurst (click here to read the history) in the 1930s after losing her beloved family home, Knole, upon the death of her father. The estate went to a male cousin and then to the National Trust. Vita and Harold rebuilt Sissinghurst and created a beautiful garden, one that continues to serve as model and inspiration for gardeners today. It also became a National Trust property when Vita and Harold’s son Nigel signed it over. One of the tenets of the National Trust ownership, however, is that family members may continue to live on the property in perpetuity if they want to. This brings us back to Adam Nicolson.

Adam and his wife Sarah Raven lived at Sissinghurst, taking care of Adam’s father Nigel Nicolson in his later years. The pair was already famous for both writing books and for television appearances; their transformation of their farm in Sussex became the subject of Perch Farm: A New Life (out of print) and The Smell of Summer Grass: Pursuing Happiness – Perch Hill, 1004-2011. It also marked the beginning of Raven’s television career as a gardening show host and author.

Image via thefirstpost.co.uk

Between 2005 and 2009, in partnership with the National Trust, Adam led a project which transformed the 260 acres surrounding the house and garden at Sissinghurst into a productive mixed farm, growing meat, fruit, cereals and vegetables for the National Trust restaurant. It is this experience that is recounted in Sissinghurst: An Unfinished History.

When we visited Sissinghurst Castle Farmhouse (I blogged about this yesterday), one of the first questions I asked Sue was whether the transformation of Sissinghurst to a working farm had been accomplished. She was kind of surprised that I would not know the answer to this, because there had been a BBC television series based on Nicolson’s book and I guess that everyone in England knows the answer to my question. She told me that, yes, there had been many changes made, and that Adam, his wife Sarah, and their children were currently in residence at Sissinghurst. I found that at night I could see their flat screen television from our bedroom window at the Farmhouse and became more and more enchanted with the notion that normal human beings (albeit famous and part of Britain’s peerage) were living in the 16th century buildings at Sissinghurst.

Image credit: Got My Reservations

And then we actually visited the garden. The first night, I made my husband walk around the public spaces in the early evening, even though the garden was closed. I felt as though I could feel the ghosts of Sissinghurst past gathering around me as I sat in the courtyard outside the Granary restaurant in the dusk. It was spooky, yet comforting, to feel the benign presence of the people who had lived in this centuries-old space. Perhaps surprising, too, since one of the major episodes in Sissinghurst’s life had been to serve as a prison. Still, it felt welcoming and safe.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Then we actually went into the garden.Somehow I never made it up to the top of the tower, the only remaining part of the original medieval castle. I kept thinking that I would go another day, but never got the chance again. I regret it now, but at least it’s an excuse to go back.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

As for the garden itself, it was everything I had hoped it would be. I have MANY more photos than these, but I’ll just let some of my pictures tell the remaining story of Sissinghurst Castle and its gardens.

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

Image Credit: Got My Reservations

If you’re looking for more about Vita and Harold, I’m going to take you to Knole tomorrow, Vita’s ancestral home. There’s a lot of juicy stories to share about this castle, so come back to visit!

This post  linked up with hundreds of other 31 Day-ers. Join the fun and visit other bloggers as they share a piece of themselves. I’m still number 568, by the way.

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